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About Courses | Private Guiding | Schedule & Costs | Denali Prep
- March: 19 - 22
- April: 2 - 5; 9 - 12; 16-19
- Cost: $995 per person
- Client to Guide Ratio: 3:1
Our 4 Day Denali/Alaska Expedition Preparatory Course is best suited for those who have already completed a basic or introductory mountaineering course, either with us here in the San Juans, or in other major mountain ranges in the lower 48 such as the Cascades or Sierras. This course has been specifically designed for those who are planning expedition style ascents in Alaska (Denali), South America (Aconcagua), or the Himalayas.
The course takes place on Snowdon Peak (13,077 ft.) which is easily visible from Molas Pass and just south of the town of Silverton. On this course and expedition, we will attempt to climb either the NW Ridge or the West Buttress, depending upon current snow conditions. The course and instruction will focus on the following topics, which apply to mountaineering and expedition climbing in Alaska, South America, and the Himalayas. Specific emphasis will be placed on the acquisition and refinement of the skills listed below, as well as the proper selection and use of the climbing gear and clothing you will be using on your upcoming expedition:
- Avalanche Awareness and Hazard Recognition
- Proper Camp Construction and Fortification
- Expedition Style Ascents
- Team Roped Travel
- Anchor Construction in Alpine Terrain
- Alpine Snow and Rock Climbing Technique
- Crevasse Rescue Protocol
Trip Cost Includes: An AMGA Trained Alpine Guide, breakfasts and dinners while on the mountaineering portion of the course, as well as communal camping, cooking and climbing equipment. We can supply airport and hotel transfers, and local transportation during the course free of charge for those who fly to Durango.
Not Included: Hotel costs before, during or after the courses. 3% land use surcharge, $3 Colorado Outdoor Recreation Search and Rescue card (required), trip cancellation insurance, personal climbing or camping equipment, or gratuities.
Equipment: Download the Winter Mountaineering Course Equipment Checklist
Prerequisites:Participants should have prior, basic mountaineering experience. They should be comfortable with self arrest, walking in crampons, and have ice and rock climbing experience. If you do not possess these skills, or need review, we recommend completing our Introduction to Winter Alpine Mountaineering on Engineer Mountain prior to signing up for this course.
Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out our Domestic Registration Form, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit as early as possible prior to the course date. Balance is due on the first day of the course. Please click on our Registration/Travel link to access the required forms.
Day Zero: Course participants will meet the evening prior to the course at the Southwest Adventure Guides' office, to take care of any outfitting needs, perform a thorough check of your personal equipment, and give you the opportunity to purchase or rent any additional items that you may need for the course. We also give you tips on packing your pack for departure the following morning. If course participants cannot attend the evening meeting, arrangements must be made to complete these tasks the morning that the course begins.
Day One: We'll start out by driving North on highway 550 towards Silverton and Molas Pass. Parking the car at Andrews Lake (10,400 ft.) we'll strap on our snow shoes and begin the task of breaking trail towards the base of Snowdon Peak which dominates the skyline to the East. On the way we'll cover the basics of avalanche awareness and the proper use of rescue beacons. We'll arrive at Camp 1 (11,000 ft.) by midday and dig ourselves a good camp.
Day Two: We have much less farther to travel on this day but the move to Camp 2 (11,500 ft.) is an important goal because it gives us an excellent position from which to launch our summit attempts on the previous days. This day will also focus on the concepts of team roped travel, snow anchors, and a more throrough investigation into avalanche conditions and how to properly assess risk.
Day Three: Depending upon weather and avalanche conditions, we may choose to attempt the summit of Snowdon Peak on this day. Waking early, we'll make the ascent of the NW Ridge (Grade 3), characterized by steep sections of mixed rock, snow, and ice in a fabulous position. The views of the San Juan high country, specifically the Weminuche Wilderness are simply awe inspiring.
Day Four: This is an alternate summit day in case of poor weather. If we have summitted on the previous day, we'll delve deeper into the topics we covered on Day 2 of the course, then pack things up and hopefully be back to the car before dark! We'll drive down to Durango and enjoy a celebration dinner!
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Alaska
