Keith had climbed Snowdon multipule times but had never been up the West Buttress or down the Northwest Ridge. We decided to make a day of it. Keith left Farmington early in the morning and picked me up in Durango on the way North to the mountains. The route was in great condition and the weather was perfect, it’s hard to not have fun with a combo like that. Below are a couple pics from the day. Enjoy!

BK

Julie is training to climb Nun and Kun in Kashmir this summer. Julie came up to Durango and climbed with me in January during an Intro to Mountaineering course. She just returned last week for some more. We started out with two days of ice climbing. Day one in Cascade Canyon going over the basics, and day two in Ouray at the Skylight area and a little in the Ice Park. We then headed up to Snowdon to learn some crevasse rescue, how to ascend a fixed line, team rope travel, make a summit bid, and do some winter camping. On the fifth day we made a summit bid, but turned around part way up because of the avalanche conditions. We hiked back to camp, packed up, and were back in Durango by noon so we switched out gear and went rock climbing at X-Rock for a few hours. The last day we headed back to Cascade Cayon for some more ice climbing, before Julie started the drive back to Flagstaff.

Great climbing with you Julie!

BK

Erin came down from Boulder to learn some skills and gain some experience in the world of winter mountaineering. Since it was only her we tweeked the itinerary to fit her needs. We started out with a half day of ice climbing in Cascade Canyon. Then drove up the pass and hiked into our Engineer camp in the afternoon. The next day was a skills day in which we went over avalanche rescue, snow anchors, self arresting, techniques for walking with crampons, etc. On day three we got up early and climbed Engineer Mountain! We had perfect weather the whole time which makes it hard not to have a good time! Good climbing with you Erin, I hope to climb with you again in the future!

BK

We are getting set for a 12 day Cotopaxi and Chimborazo climb with a group of 10, and the guides are in Quito, Ecuador making final preparations for the trip as the bulk of our group is scheduled to arrive this evening.

Two of our guests for this expedition are already here, having decided to come down a few days early to get some additional time to acclimatize. Today they are hiking Rucu Pinchincha just outside of Quito. The hiking is easily accessible from the Telepherique/Gondola and makes for an enjoyable hike and climb of this 15,000 ft peak.

This evening the rest of our group will arrive and the trip will begin in earnest. Stay tuned to our blog for daily updates on the trip and the teams progress as well as pictures.

We will also be posting updates and pictures on our Facebook Page.

ND

Julie is planning to climb Nun and Kun in Kashmir this summer and came to Durango for a little training on Engineer Mountain. We hiked up to 11,500′ and made our camp for the next two nights. The next day we had a training day in which we went over, knots, self arresting, traveling in avalanche terrain, beacon searches, snow anchors, moving on fixed lines, moving with crampons and an axe. On the final day we got up early and summited Engineer by 8am, having watched the sun come up while climbing the ridge. Julie is coming back for more training in March on our Denali prep course. Great climbing with you Julie, see you in March!

BK

Tim came out to Colorado and once again crushed it! We climbed Engineer Mountain car to car in about 7 hours. It was a pretty windy at the bottom of the ridge going up and on the way down but quite beautiful while higher on the ridge and summit.

Tim I look forward to climbing with you this summer and Happy Anniversary to you and Mary!

BK

In their October newletter, the AMGA highlights some of the issues (and what we as a climbing community can do about them), revolving around the attempt by the National Park Service to ban commercial guiding in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. In addition to The Black, the NPS is also attempting to reduce by almost 40% the amount of commercial guiding on Denali.

Essentially, the National Park Service is placing the rights of the independent climber ABOVE the rights of those who would choose to hire the services of a professional guide. In our view, both user groups should be afforded equal treatment and rights by the National Park Service, Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Management.

Please take the time to read further and find out what you can do about it!

Comments due for The Black Canyon NP on October 27.

Comments due for Denali NP on October 31.

National Parks Access Threatened - Important Call to Action!

**************Comments DUE Saturday, 10/27********************

We are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country’s National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.

The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because “guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous.” The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It’s in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

___________________________________________________________________________________

The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country’s most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to [email protected] today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park’s plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,
Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science
National Park Service,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

Tim has wanted to climb Pigeon and Turret since he first saw them years ago, but Pigeon and Turret are big peaks deep in the Weminuche. Just getting into Ruby Creek at the base of the peaks is a big day. The weather didn’t look great but looked like it would offer us a window to climb the peaks. Sure enough we got rained on hiking in and out of Ruby Creek but were blessed with only sun on the climbing day. Hiking out we figured we ascended around 9,800′ in the three days.

Great trip Tim!

Below are some photos of our trip.

BK

Gary had been into Chicago Basin back in the 70’s, and had left with unfinished business. He had climbed Jupiter and Windom but bad weather denied them Eolus and Sunlight. Since the 70’s Gary has climbed peaks all over the North Cascades. When he decided to return to the Weminuche to finish the peaks in Chicago Basin, he wanted to make it a combo trip and visit Vestal Basin as well.

We started out the 7 day trip with a day of rock climbing at East Animas in Durango, finishing day one with a two pitch climb called Angel Dust. Day two we took the train into Elk Park and hiked into Vestal Basin where we were greeted with a great show from two moose. The next morning we woke early and climbed the amazing Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak. On the way down from Vestal we decided it was early enough in the day to climb Arrow Peak as well. The next two days were spent hiking over to Chicago Basin for the second part of the trip. We decided that it was most efficent to climb all the 14,000′ Chicago basin peaks in one day so again we woke early and climbed Eolus then Sunlight and were at 13,800′ on Windom when the weather started coming in and forced us down. Not bad for one day! The final day of this great trip was spent hiking out of Chicago Basin and catching the train to Durango.

Check out some photos below!

BK

Day 1: We started out the trip climbing at X-Rock, where we learned Belaying, Rapelling, Climbing Technique, and Anchor Systems. In the afternoon we made a meal plan for the rest of the trip and went food shopping.

Day 2: We got up early and drove North to Andrews Lake which was our launching point for Snowdon Peak. Perfect weather and a fun group of guys made for a great summit! After descending we hiked back to the car and drove to the Purgatory Flats Trail head and hiked down to the Animas river to camp.

Day 3: The goal was to hike into Noname Basin but while crossing Noname Creek Jason slipped and whacked his ankle on a rock. Between that and the pouring rain we decided to sleep for the night at the mouth of Noname near the Animas.

Day 4: Finished hiking into Noname basin and camped next to the old Miners cabin. Amazingly we got a fire going despite all the rain we had had.

Day 5: Jasons heel was still not 100% so Vincent and I climbed a peak North of the cabin called Heisspitz. Which apparently means something like “Hot Peak” in German. Vincent worked on his short roping skills and his kiwi coil on the way to the top.

Day 6: Jason and I got up early again and climbed Knife point, returned to camp and hiked with Jason into the beautiful Ruby creek.

Day 7: All of us got up early and climbed up to the Saddle between Turret and Pigeon. Jason was not feeling very good so he headed back to camp while Vincent and I climbed the two peaks. We then returned to camp packed up and hiked back down to the Animas to get a jump on the next day.

Day 8: We finished the hike out to the Purgatory Flats Trail Head and drove back to Durango. Finishing off a great tour of the Weminuche and a great trip!

BK