Over Presidents day weekend we had a great group of people attend an Avy 1 Course. Below are some photos from the last day of the course, taken around Molas Pass.

BK

Winter? What? Whatever! We’re going rock climbing!

That’s right, Moab rock climbing can be enjoyed all year round. Chris came last weekend for some tower and rock fun in the beautiful red desert.

After picking Chris up at the airport in Durango, we were off to the desert. A few hours later at the base of Castleton tower setting up camp.

Saturday we attempted Castleton in the crisp air which was perfect for hiking and climbing. Though we only made it a few pitches up we enjoyed some warm sun, great views, and a short nap on the top of the second pitch.

Realizing that the nearly 6000 jump in altitude was getting to Chris, we decided call it a day and rappel off. We’ll be back.

That night we met up with Matt P and Jeff W who were climbing towers as well for some beers and dinner in Moab. After Dinner, we camped under the unreal star-filled sky that Moab always seems to provide.

Sunday, we decided to play around at the famous Wall Street crag for some fun climbs and rope ascension practice. Chris was feeling better today and managed to send a 5.10b with two rests that he could’nt even get up last year!

Nice job Chris!

Then I set up some jugging (rope ascending) practice.

Well, after some Wall Street fun it was time to hit the road to get Chris back to D-town for his flight home.

Another great weekend in Moab that goes to show that if the sun’s-a-shinin, rock climbing in the desert is a year round affair!

BG

In celebration of fixing my computer, I am posting random pictures from this summers trips for your viewing pleasure.

BG

Father and son duo Tom and Morgan came out from North Carolina this mid July to test their knowledge against, and learn more in, Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. We began with rock climbing at one of our local Durango crags; X Rock. Here we covered anchors, belaying, knots, safe climbing skills and a handful of other rope work tricks and tips. Day 2 we utilized everything covered on Day 1, as well as added multi pitch climbing, building more natural anchors, and more efficient climbing technique. Now that our arms were sufficiently tired, Day 3 brought on the leg workout. We planned on climbing Snowdon Peak’s, 13,077, West Buttress. However around 12,650 feet, the weather gods decided otherwise. Thunder turned us around, but this change in events allowed us to cover more efficient alpine climbing skills that Tom and Morgan could take with them on other climbs in the future.

The next three day leg of the course were spent in Vestal Basin. Here we climbed Arrow Peak’s, 13,803, Northeast ramp. We snuck this climb in between rain drops as it rained all the previously night and began again around 11:30 AM. Luckily, with such a highly spirited couple of climbers, morals were never threatened. We played Rummy for hours, practised rope work during lulls in the rain and had fun watching the mountain goats in our camp. The Durango - Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad brought us back to Durango where we added crampons and ice axes to our assortment of gear.

Day 7 we hiked into the breath-taking Ice Lakes Basin. We set up camp at 12,240 feet on the shores of the blue-green Ice Lake and relaxed. Later that afternoon we covered how to walk in crampons, including the important rest step. Next, we slid on the snow and ice practising ice axe arresting. Tom and Morgan did awesome, perfecting all four body positions. Morgan couldn’t stop smiling!

The next morning Morgan and I climbed Fuller Peak, 13,761, Vermillion Peak, 13,894, and Golden Horn, 13,780. This cirque is a great place to practise snow skills and get the chance to ridge-run from summit to summit. That afternoon we hiked back to the car and had lunch in Ouray. The last day we had a “check out day” as we called it. This settled any unsure thoughts Tom and Morgan had about anchors and climbing. Now they were able to climb safely on their own back at home. Good work in Colorado and enjoy your new skills back East.

Chris joined us for a hat trick weekend this last weekend of mountaineering, rock climbing, and ice climbing.

The weekend started out with a attempt at Snowdon peak where Ben and Chris made it to the Naked Lady coular before having to turn back.

So, with some extra daylight to kill, we took Chris to the beautiful East Animas cliffs for some afternoon rock climbing which was a warm welcome to the chillier morning in the snow… this is what makes this area so great in the spring! Done with winter? Head towards town for some spring warmth and sun.

After Chris getting in some more leads and harder top-ropes, it was off to town for some well earned dinner.

Finally after a great dinner in town and a good nights sleep, we headed up to winter and Cascade Canyon for some ice climbing on the surprisingly fat ice climbs and some great mixed practice as well.

All together, another great “hat trick” weekend of varied endeavors and jam packed fun… I think this spring “Hat trick” thing could catch on.

BG

Despite getting food poisoning from suspect airport food, Chris trooped through the weekend in style. Back in Ouray, Chris was able to overcome and conquer getting multiple pitches in between bouts of sickness. Way to hang in there Chris!

The next day with Chris feeling much better, he was ready to up the ante with his climbing. So with all the experience that he had gained with us he was ready to cross a major milestone in his climbing… His First Lead!!!

With a couple of Mock-leads the day before and a review on techniques, we found a nice WI3 that was well within his abilities, talked strategy, and off he went cruising his way to the top!

Despite some bumps, we had a great weekend and crossed a milestone. Great job Chris! We’ll see ya soon for Snowdon and more climbing!

BG

Allan joined me this past weekend to get some vertical ice climbing under his belt. Allan has climbed all over North and South America already, and will join us on our Cordillera Blanca trip in the heart of Peru. Artesonraju is a 6000 meter peak comprised of very continuous 50 to 65 degree snow and ice climbing.

check out this program at https://swaguides.com/trips_courses/expeditions/peru/artesonraju.shtml

On Saturday Allan and I climbed in the schoolroom. He picked up a perfect swing and great footwork immediately. We made a couple v-threads and placed multiple ice screws. Allan was absolutely shocked as to how strong both v-threads and screws can be. By the end of the day, Allan had climbed around 800 feet of ice. Nice work.

The next day we started out of ‘The Schoolroom Pillar.’ This is the steepest piece of ice in the Schoolroom. No problem.

We then moved North into the Alcove Area and climbed another 5 pitches here ranging over 120 feet long.

Our afternoon was spent working on skills ranging from knots and hitches to glacier travel to companion crevasse rescue. Once we had out climbed our area and were happy with progress, Allan climbed one last route from the canyon floor to the rim. Around 150 feet. 1300 feet total over both days.

At the end of the day, we swung by The Black Canyon of the Gunnison to see the “big ditch” in the winter time. Allan had never been there before and it was a great added bonus to his trip to Southwestern Colorado. Hopefully he will join us for some world class rock climbing there this summer! All in all, the weekend perfected Allan’s ice climbing ability and I know he will be successful in Peru this summer.

As if we aren’t lucky enough here in Durango! Already having access to some of the best backcountry skiing, ice climbing, rock climbing, alpine climbing, and wilderness in the country, we now have one of the most technologically advanced physical therapy clinics in the nation! I have recently discovered this gem in my fight with chronic back pain that started last October.

A team consisting of a chiropractor and two physical therapists, these three bring a multitude of the latest technology to the table. Between chiropractic adjustments, I have also had the pleasure of trying out the Class IV Laser, ASTYM treatment, Trigger Point Dry Needling, and Real Time Ultrasound. This is just a handful of treatments theses guys use in the fight against pain. These guys get my guides pick for a preventative and recovery clinic for anyone that needs a helping hand or needs to speed up the recovery process.

Give these guys a try if you’re in need of a helping hand!

BG

Chris’s total domination of the ice continued last weekend with an ascent of Whore House Hoses and more sending at the Ouray Ice Park.

First off was the stunning three pitch line of Whorehouse Hoses. Though the other pitches are fun routes in their own right, the stunning first pitch is the main event at 210 feet tall and WI4!

Then some domination in the Ice Park as we climbed near Matt, Ben and Ian so we could swap ropes and hang out.

All in all, another weekend of great ice, good company, and total domination.

BG

Last weekend, Eric, Adam, and Morgan joined me for a two day introduction to ice climbing in beautiful Ouray, Colorado. Upon meeting in the morning on Saturday, we geared up and headed into the Ouray Ice Park to begin our lessons.

In an area called the “New Funtier,” a lesson on the basic techniques of Ice climbing along with a belay review was first in order and then on to the ice to practice the new skills.

Then after many laps up the ice, we packed it up and enjoyed some great dinner that evening in town.

The next morning, we were up early to get on some steeper terrain.

After more laps (mileage is important when learning), we learned about ice screws and anchor construction.

After we had climbed this area out, we were ready to try something new and so off we went to the “Scottish Gullies” for some more ice and to try out Rappelling.

All in all, a great weekend and a great crew. After completing the intro course, these three are ready to try the intermediate course and some multipitch and more advanced terrain.

BG