Chopicalqui Expedition

The Cordillera Blanca in Peru offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. Our main objective, will be the mammoth Chopicalqui (20,841'), one of the Cordillera's most striking peaks. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an excellent opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to high altitude. In order to acclimate, we will also attempt Nevado Pisco (18,997'), which offers breathtaking views all the way to the summit. This trip is perfect for those with previous mountaineering experience and the best way to prepare for either our Alpamayo and Quitaraju or Artesonraju expeditions.

Once we arrive in Lima, we travel by bus to Huaraz (9,500'), at the very foot of the Cordillera Blanca. After spending a day there checking and repacking gear, we drive north to Quebrada Llanganuco. We establish our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of burros, the next day move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The third day takes us to one of the most beautiful mountain camps in all the world, the col between Pisco Oeste and Nevado Huandoy. Our route to the summit, the Southwest Slopes, takes us through interesting crevasse fields and up some 30-45 degree slopes and provides us with spectacular views the whole way. With our gradual ascent, expedition team members should feel good on this climb, and upon its completion, be well prepared for an attempt on Chopiqualqui.

After resupplying in the valley, we drive to our departure point for Chopiqualqui. Since we will be acclimated to the elevation we can proceed directly to our moraine camp, and then the following day move to high camp. From our high camp we proceed towards our route, the Southwest Ridge, which takes us across the glaciated bench below the ridge, then climbs up along a broad ridge to the point where it steepens near the summit. After negotiating some technical terrain we reach the 6000 meter summit. Following our summit climb, we make the short descent to the road where we drive back to Huaraz, then Lima.

These climbs offer spectacular views of the Cordillera's premier peaks, and climb two very attractive summits. We ascend slowly, taking advantage of well placed camps, to acclimate properly for the climbs. Our trips are fully supported with burros, porters, and cooks. Pack weights are light to ease the adjustment to the altitude, and give us a greater chance for success.

Trip Highlights

• 16 day itinerary maximizes acclimatization and chance for success
• Bi-lingual guides ensure your trip runs smoothly
• Most favorable client-to-guide ratio in the industry
• Visit cultural sites around Huaraz
• Climb Chopicalqui, a 6000 meter peak
• Satellite phone access and pulse oximeters on all trips

Sample Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Lima where you will be met at the airport by the guide and taken to the hotel.
Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz.
Day 3: Today we visit the two thousand year old ruins of Chavin. This is also an acclimatization day.
Day 4: Travel by bus, then collectivo to base camp.
Day 5: With the help of burros, we travel to moraine camp.
Day 6: Rest day and further acclimatization.
Day 7: Summit day on Pisco.
Day 8: We travel to base camp on Chopicalqui.
Day 9: Carry to moraine camp on Chopicalqui.
Day 10: Rest day at moraine camp
Day 11: To high camp on Chopicalqui.
Day 12: Summit day on Chopicaliqui.
Day 13: Extra summit day
Day 14: Return to Huaraz.
Day 15: Return to Lima.
Day 16: Return to the U.S.

Additional Information

Included in cost: An AMGA trained Alpine Guide, all ground transportation, hotels, tents. and food while on the mountain. All group climbing and camping equipment.

Not included in cost: Food and drinks in towns, personal climbing and camping equipment, and international air fare, costs of a personal nature, extra hotels or transportation due to illness, injury, or early return.

Prerequisites: Participants should have prior, basic mountaineering experience. They should be comfortable with self arrest, walking in crampons, and have basic roped climbing experience. If you do not possess these skills, or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado prior to your Peru trip.

Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out an International Expedition Application, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit 60 days before the trip date. Balance is due 30 days prior to trip departure date. Please click on our Registration/Travel link to access the required forms.